“An excellent restaurant hiding in plain sight.”
I’ve eaten my way through enough Roka and Nobu to be looking for something more in a Japanese restaurant than black cod and moody lighting. Tokii was recommended to me as a small and very authentic Japanese restaurant situated in the Prince Akatoki Hotel near Marble Arch. I checked out the menu online and found it to be a concise and pleasing list of crowd pleasers, classics, and more creative plates.
The atmosphere at the restaurant is friendly, and if you’re lucky you can bag the seats by the sushi counter, where the chef freshly prepares pristine plates of sushi with a satisfying deft and effortlessness. I enjoy the theatre and confidence in the chef that comes when dining before an open kitchen, and these seats are a good pick if you can get them. Otherwise, you’ll be seated in a cool, small but spacious Japanese cavern hidden in the hotel. Despite the central location, this restaurant has managed to maintain the discrete air of a place that is very much under the radar.
I enjoyed a cocktail as I perused the menu – the “Ceremonial Spritz” a sweet and delicious blend of lychee, elderflower and sparking saké.
The food arrived in a timely fashion, and the menu is of the small plates, arriving as they’re cooked concept. We tried:
Tuna Tartar: A silky mound of raw tuna and avocado, topped with delicately picked cucumber, and best served piled onto the accompanying rice crackers.One of my favourite plates for it’s simplicity, the freshness of the tuna, and pleasing combination of textures.
Shrimp Tempura: no marks for originality but perfectly cooked in the most crispy and light batter. On any given evening, I could easily have a bucket of these, with a vat of sweet chilli deep and be very much satisfied.
Pork belly skewers (these were a substitute for the Iberico pork sliders, which had unfortunately sold out): Sticky and soft slabs of pork belly that we both loved. The fat is delicous, as is the sweet and salty teriyaki marinade. I’m a big fan of pork belly (by far my favourite meat for a Sunday roast) so this was one of my favourite plates and very moreish.
Buttermilk and sansho pepper crispy fried chicken: A similar flavour profile to Korean fried chicken, delicous little nuggets of crispy chicken thigh with smooth dipping sauce. When done correctly, it’s impossible not to like fried chicken, and this is no exception, but is indeed an exceptional example.
Assortment of 5 sashimi, and 5 nigiri – I particularly enjoyed the shrimp sashimi, and the yellowtail belly nigiri. I am by no means a sushi expert, but I know when it’s good (this is very good).
Sesame Greens: (confession: this dish was only picked due to guilt at having chosen such meat-heavy plates). These greens are very lightly dressed (we added some soy, which they needed) and were a welcome break from the fatty pork and deep fried chicken.
Dessert was:
Chocolate and matcha fondant with cherry ice cream: I can’t recommend this dessert enough. Utterly gluttonous after such a big meal, although not too sweet or too matcha-y. Splitting open my fondant I was pleased at the flood of matcha which spilled out of its chocolatey captor. The cherry yoghurt ice cream had exactly the zing and acidity you need to cut through the richness – the perfect way to finish such a well prepared dinner.
Yuzu creme brulee tart with raspberries, white chocolate and mint. The white chocolate coated mint leaves were inspired (I shall be trying this myself) and the tart was bursting with citrus and raspberry flavours. A creamy, crispy, carbohydrate bomb that was delicious and beautifully presented.
We enjoyed:
A Beautiful 2008 vintage Thienot with dinner.
This meal exceeded my expectations – an excellent restaurant hiding in plain sight in the heart of London, dedicated to giving you an authentic and unforgettable experience. I could definitely see myself returning to try the sliders that we missed this time (any excuse!)
Sabrina Goodlife
