Favourite plates from my restaurant meals this week:
Monday:
The Chicken, bacon, and avocado salad, at Dean Street Townhouse.
A bold claim, but one of the best chicken salads in town (other than my own recipe, of course). An unctuous plate of gargantuan proportions (this was, alledgedly, the “small” portion), which didn’t scrimp on dressing, perfectly cooked chicken, little abrasive nuggets of bacon, and plentiful shavings of silky Keens Cheddar on top.
Tuesday:
Coq Au Vin with creamed potatoes, at The Wolseley.
A rich and syrupy (possibly over reduced) red wine sauce, smothers everything it comes in contact with – not that I’m complaining. This isn’t going to win any awards for innovation, it’s the Wolseley after all, but a stellar favourite, in an equally reliable institution. The mash is exactly what you expect – proof that butter really is the secret ingredient in anything French and worth eating.
Wednesday:
Everybody knows the fatal flaw in a “sharing plates” menu is, when it’s good, frankly, you don’t want someone else eating half. Paired simply with a mound of vinegary onions & a smattering of capers, the flavours are simple and reassuringly Greek. My dining companion and I both agreed this was the standout dish of our meal, and one well worth returning for – although perhaps alone if you don’t feel like sharing.
Thursday:
Asparagus, whipped ricotta, and truffle honey at The Garden at The Berkley.
Absolutely dreamy combination of charred asparagus, heaped with herbs and olive oil, cool creamy ricotta, honey, truffle shavings, and an entirely pointless watercress garnish. Not at all refined, but a charming, fresh pseudo-Italian plate, capitalising on bags of flavour, and all your favourite things heaped on the same plate. So delicious we ordered a second helping.
Friday:
Raw Red Prawns with lemon oil at Blandford Comptoir.
Of the five courses I ate, this was by far the most simple, and the one that left the most lasting impression. I can hardly compliment the chef for having placed six raw prawns on a plate, but my god the quality of these is something truly special. So soft and sweet you’d be tempted to spread them on bread (will try next time), and more full and complex in flavour than you’d ever imagine a prawn could be.
Saturday:
Rib Eye and trimmings, at The Guinea Grill.
448 grams of free range, full fat, meaty deliciousness, cooked to absolute perfection. So complete you almost don’t need any sides, but my fundamental greed persevered (as usual) and we ordered three. In what was perhaps the worlds most futile attempt at avoiding carbs (laughable, after four cocktails, and sticky toffee pudding to follow) I avoided potatoes and instead chose the peas and bacon (good) The mushrooms (very good) and the baked gruyere creamed spinach (excellent). A steak, for the most part is what it is, and the quality here was excellent.
Sunday:
Mirchi & Pyaz Bhajia at Bombay Bustle.
I’m embarrassingly British when it comes to my choices at Indian restaurants (a veil of shame descends over me as I mutter “chicken tikka” at an unimpressed waiter who’s probably written it down before I’ve even said it). So it’s hardly a surprise that my starter of choice was the Onion Bhaji. This variation, made with red onions, deliciously light and not oily, and couples with red peppers in the same batter and a delicious green chutney, was one of the more refined examples, subtly spiced and delicious. My lack of adventurousness was well rewarded!