Cuisine: British with world influences
Website Link: https://www.oetkercollection.com/hotels/the-lanesborough/restaurants-bars/the-lanesborough-grill/
Overall Rating: 7.5/10
Food: 7.5/10
Service: 7/10
Atmosphere: 8.5/10
Would I return: Yes – but not too soon.
What you need to know: The hash brown potatoes are a must try with a meaty main course. Arrive early for drinks at the hotels Library Bar. Later lunches will overlap with others having afternoon tea.
Verdict: Having lost their Michelin star, the restaurant at The Lanesborough has been reborn as The Lanesborough Grill, a fine dining restaurant (not a “Grill”) by Chef Shay Cooper (formerly of Michelin Star Goring Dining Room). The grilled octopus with sea kale, Jersey royals, and white almond gazpacho was a perfectly delicious dish with farm more gastronomic qualities than I expected. I also enjoyed the Cotswold white chicken, black garlic, cauliflower cheese purée, and roast chicken gravy. This with the hash brown potatoes made for the poshed up chicken and chips of dreams – although I did feel the gravy could have been further reduced or bolder in flavour. Still, the main course was a textural delight of juicy chicken breast, a smooth cheesy puree and perfect cubes of crisp hash browns (a must order). This is a chef that loves to please. Dessert was a princess-like combination of stone fruit and tea – a rose blend ice cream sandwich with ruby peach sorbet. We finished with petits fours (carrot cake and chocolate) which were pleasant without being showstopping.
When the food arrived it was of a much more gastronomic standard than the name “Grill” suggests. The plates are fancy without being fussy, but most definitely reaching for a Michelin Star. The octopus with sea kale was the sort of thing one imagines eating in the south of France between ice cold swigs rosé: an elegant, light, and zesty plate.
The dining room is beautiful: all powder blue walls and crystal chandeliers a gorgeous environment for a date, afternoon tea, or ladies get together. Service I found to be good but not great. After losing their Michelin star, this is the new life the Lanesborough needs. I am confident that with a the right improvements The Grill could reach Michelin Star Standard – but it’s not there yet.
Sabrina Goodlife.