What you need to know: This restaurant is famed for nose to tail dining – there’s little point in going if you don’t enjoy offal. The bone marrow is almost famously good. Ask for ice cream with your madeleines. Walk in with no reservation for bar seats or to grab something sweet from the bakery.
Verdict: St John has paved the way for much of today’s new school British dining. A highly respected restaurant that walked so the Noble Rots and Quality Chops of this world could run. Still, you can’t school the coach. I popped in for lunch this afternoon and was pleased to find this iconic spot favoured by chefs, food writers and creatives was as great as I remembered. Some favourites were the Cured Galloway (like carpaccio meets bresaola) with a fiery blob of horseradish, liver and courgette – the courgettes holding their shape in a pool of rich gravy, and lamb heart with bobby beans and roast shallot (must be enjoyed with he buttery Jersey royals. I finished with the madeleines, which are made to order (you MUST ask for vanilla ice cream to go with these – it makes all the difference)
The menu is always restrained with a dash of interest and a preference for unusual cuts and hyper-seasonal produce – as a result the menu changed frequently and I don’t imagine all the plates I’ve mentioned will be on available for your visit. I particularly enjoyed their own label Premier Cru with lunch (seriously good fizz). This is a confident restaurant focused on showcasing British fare – serving honest Man Food to those with no interest in popping candy and edible flowers. The meal was elegant and generous – the best produce available, prepared in the most delicious and appropriate ways. A must visit for a lover of quality dining and a strong recommendation from me.
Sabrina Goodlife.