An Italian grocers with a difference, new to Borough.
I can’t remember how exactly I stumbled across the news Prezzemolo e Vitale would be opening their latest outlet in Borough, but it was the day before the launch, and I made a mental note to swing by before my weekly pilgrimage to Borough Market. I arrived early in the day, not sure what to expect having never visited their other stores. Giuseppe Prezzemolo and Guise Vitale started this dream 30 years ago in Palermo, Sicily, and this, a labour or love, is their third opening in London, after Kings Road and Notting Hill. Three decades in the making, they’ve cracked the formula – and have created a beautiful space, combining the pristine optimism that you can only get with new shops, with the authentic and welcoming atmosphere that all good Delis have. In fact, P&V self-describes not as a Deli, but as a grocery store – which is perhaps more fitting for this overflowing cove of fresh produce, pantry staples, cheeses, charcuterie, baked goods, and coffee.
I enter and first take a good look at what’s on offer, taking in what already feels like a local institution – the staff friendly, and the smattering of dining tables already fully occupied by enthusiastic diners sipping Sicilian coffee, or enjoying one of the many fresh sandwiches and salads on offer. Me eyes are drawn to unusual – tomatoes of a variety I’m not familiar with, a wall packed with any number of things preserved in oils and vinegars, dried pastas in shapes and hues I’ve never seen before, and charcuteries with names I can’t pronounce. The balance between these, and familiar favourites – massive rounds of parmesan and gorgonzola, jars of passata and pesto, strings of chillis and onions (and so on) makes for a the perfect shopping experience. I gather together some things I might make a dish out of – some fresh pasta, chilli, tomatoes, sundried tomatoes (but not the usual – little cherry tomatoes halved, dried and bagged as you would buy dried fruit, something I’ve never seen before), aged parmesan, and some Salsiccia Campagnola Picante (spicy “country” sausage – another ingredient new to me, which I later found to be like a very firm and slightly fattier chorizo), and some passata. I also couldn’t resist some figs and gorgonzola – so delicious on crackers or toasted crusty bread. My basket now full, I crossed the café and bakery (making a mental note to return for a slice of Ciambellone) and who should I notice whilst paying for my purchases, but Prezzemolo and Vitale themselves, casting a beady yet loving eye over the debut of their latest project.
This blogging gig is new to me, and I’m still grappling with fears of becoming the type of person I can’t stand – one who is constantly taking photos of absolutely everything. Nevertheless, I thought it polite to say hello to the Giuseppe and Guise, and rather sheepishly ask for a photo. They kindly obliged, and my efforts were rewarded with a complimentary bottle of Sicilian wine (Planeta La Segreta Il Bianco 2018)– a kind gesture and the perfect illustration for the type of place this is – a destination by lovers of food, for lovers of food (I’m desperately trying to avoid that unsufferable term “foodie”). The ingredients were excellent – I made my pasta the very same day, and it was so moreish that I ended up rather unceremoniously picking at the leftovers I’d kept for lunch the next day, until they were all gone (click here for the recipe). The wine, I should add was also a very easy to drink, fresh, fruity bottle (as you’d expect from Sicilian white wine) that I greatly enjoyed with my meal.
In this climate, I’ve a special admiration for those deciding to press ahead with new ventures. There’s a lot of competition in this area, but I believe P&V has the love and team behind it to thrive. As I strolled around the store, it occurred to me that these grocery stores are (thankfully) the polar opposite of the traditional supermarket – a triumph of quality over convenience, and a gift to the communities in which they sit. Swing by if you’re in the area – you shan’t be disappointed.
Sabrina Goodlife