“A triumph.”
It’s been three years since I last visited Pollen Street Social. I don’t remember everything about my previous meal, but one thing I do remember with a wistful clarity was the relentless onslaught of delicious and creative amuse bouches at the start of the meal, and the fantastic wine list. Navigating my way to the restaurant for lunch, I found myself consumed with anticipation – having followed Jason Atherton’s much deserved progress, everything I’d seen and read suggested this meal should be excellent. I’m one of those people who never looks at a menu prior to dining – I like the excitement of opening a leather-bound volume (or these days the slightly less romantic scan of a QR code). I open my menu and unfortunately I want it all. Every dish speaks to me. For lunch you have the options of A La Carte, or a Set Lunch menu. I can say in no uncertain terms that has I picked any two courses at random, I would have been happy.
My dining partner and I, waive for the sommelier, both thirsty for something to sip on whilst perusing the menu. To our mutual delight, they’ve a 2010 Dom Perignon by the glass (woof woof!) and we both opt for a glass. There’s that great wine list I remember, full of fantastic wines by the glass, and clever selection of both classic and lesser known wines. We order our courses and soon arrives three beautifully presented amuse bouches – a little afternoon tea of delights – “Fish and Chips”, mushroom tea (which I suddenly remember from last time – so warming and evocative that one sip brings back the fond memory) , a tasty little pastry, then two more – oyster ice cream with caviar, and a crab tart so fine you almost feel guilty eating it (until you do, whereafter you feel like eating three more). Jason is in the kitchen on this particular day, and these little delights are just what I had hoped for – champagne class in hand, this lunch has started in the most heavenly manner.
I enjoyed:
Salad of Salcombe crab, bisque jelly, brown crab on toast, lemon: A balanced and clever plate of brown and white crab, bisque, and citrus – creamy dressed crab and crunchy whisp of a toast. I’m a big fan of crab – it’s one of those things that I’m likely to order wherever I see it. This plate is delicate and pretty, without being fussy or pretentious. The sharp lemon sliced through the crab and helps balance the dish. I only wish there was more of it!
Aynhoe Park Fallow Deer, cooked over pine, salt baked celeriac, apple, cocoa nib, and juniper sauce: As you may know, I’m a big fan of game, and am trying to eat all available game in season, so enjoyed the fallow deer for my main. The pine was subtle, but present, and the celeriac, apple and juniper, and cocoa nib created a fresh woodyness – the perfect environment for two deep red jewels of deer to rest in. In addition is a little nugget of deer on a bed of pine – another little surprise from the chef. Just a mouthful – it’s over too quickly, but is perhaps my favourite mouthful of the entire meal.
Cheese or dessert? Well, the right answer is both of course, but I opted for the cheese course, picking deliciously pungent cheeses (goats cheese is for wimps and salads) to enjoy as we finished our meal. The cheese trolley (who doesn’t love a cheese trolley?) is heaving under the collective weight of 20 or so options. The portion is generous and best served with a swig of dessert wine.
Of course the restaurant doesn’t like to leave you without a little sweetness, so spoil you with the most delicious and pretty little petits fours (indeed, five of them) at the end of your experience, along with a mandarin and bergamot sorbet, sat in a silky pool of saffron syrup.
What a lunch!
I was pleased on my return to see the elegance and precision I remember are both still very much on top form. The service was impeccable, the menu was inspired, and the experience had the ease and creativity you only get from a very competent chef. This was the long boozy lunch you hope for – a menu full of delights, and dishes that arrive with generosity of flair and flavour. Like an old friend, the restaurant welcomed me back three years later with the same charm I remembered, but this time with the benefit of three years more experience. There are very few restaurants you revisit three years later and find to be three years better. A triumph – I shall be back, and this time sooner than later.
Sabrina Goodlife.
The Wines:
2010 Dom Perignon, 2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault Les Narvaux, 2016 Alter Ego de Palmer, Margaux.
