“I would not rush to return”
It’s been several years since I last visited LR&L. The memory of that last visit eludes me, save the boudoir-esque interiors (something like a retirement home for circus performers) and champagne trolley. Time for a refresher, I thought, and so it came about that I ended up on the receiving end of the tasting menu by legendary chef Piere Gagnaire.The meal started as it normally does, with a glass of Champagne – seven bottles are wheeled towards the table on an icy Darlek, and we each are asked what out tastes are. One menu between us was placed just out of reach and for that reason, and the fact that I was entirely too preoccupied talking to the Sommelier about my star sign (or whatever) that it quite escaped my notice that the glass I picked – the most inexpensive on the list was priced at £67, and glasses reach £150+++. I enjoyed my glass of Billecarte Salmone but find the pricing to be impossible to justify. Our three glasses collectively amounted to £267.50. Now I’m not tight fisted by any standard, but I found the notion of 3 glasses, anywhere, almost amounting to a whole tasting menu with wine pairing at Core by Clare Smyth, palpably absurd. It was, I should also mention, a very, very small glass of Champagne.Amuse bouches were delicious with touches of creativity – it’s hard to find truly unique Amuse Bouches these days as the “snacks” at the beginning are now one of the most anticipated courses, with almost every starred restaurant worth it’s salt going to considerable effort to wow the diner. This course included a very firm set jelly, something I experienced at his 3 Star in Paris and something of a signature for Gagnaire, which I found to be unpleasant in texture and to taste of nothing in particular. My favourite amuse bouche was the little parmesan pastries that amounted to not more than an epic bar snack but were excellent nonetheless and paired deliciously with the champagne.
Other things were less successful. Seems hard to justify putting a scallop on the same plate as Stilton cheese: no amount of kitchen wizardry can prevent stilton totally overpowering anything that dares stand in it’s path, the sweet subtle scallop didn’t stand a chance. There are a lot of gels and jellies of various consistencies, some truly gruesome in texture. It’s as if a palate of gelatin dangerously close to it’s sell by date had been on sale at Costco and was therefore being shoehorned into places where it didn’t belong. The “Himalayan salt chamber aged creedy duck with juniper” was a tasty course but quite forgettable. The ageing was not at all apparent, and the plating was amateur. Sketch had decided it wanted to be a restaurant which nailed the aesthetics – not so much as a delicately draped fringed curtain was out of place – and yet the plating of this course lacked consideration – it read more beautifully than it arrived.The sea urchin bisque with Laphoraig whisky was one of my favourites: creamy and rich with a whole host of treats floating inside – a croque, pumpkin gnocchi, mussels, leek. It was buttery and warming, hitting all the flavour and texture notes you wanted it to. I loved the oyster ice cream: a glistening pearl of smooth cooling oyster – bold yet subtle. Dessert I thought was standout: the diner is presented with 6 desserts, each immaculately presented, with the pineapple in particular delighting the palate, the granita best saved until last, cleansing the palate with an acidic twang of passionfruit. The truffle with meringue was a creative touch I found interesting without being moreish. The petits fours I only nibbled at, as they were not at all interesting.Final thoughts: I did not feel LR&L compared to other 3 Star restaurants and is dwarfed comparable restaurants (Core By Clare Smyth, Da Terra etc). As pretty as the room is, it doesn’t mask the fact that the food is good but not excellent. I did enjoy the experience overall, but I would not rush to return.Sabrina Goodlife