I had heard so many good things about Joy at Portobello, that I felt compelled to visit. Joy is a rare phenomenon – a sequel that manages to be more exciting than it’s first incarnation. Three years after the closure of Dock Kitchen, Stevie Parle has opened Joy in the same space, a debut so successful that it’s been extended for another month. The Joy experience starts at an endearingly shabby entrance on Ladbroke grove, which unfolds into a relaxed and unpretentious space – a grocery store, and an al fresco restaurant which straddles Grand Union Canal. The vibe is of a relaxed and elegant atmosphere – the diners are for the most part a casual and chic crowd. This is somewhere by foodies, for foodies – a place you go to be satiated, not to be seen, and a welcome little oasis from some of the more tedious eateries – with no one banging on and not a Gucci loafer in sight.
The restaurant was empty on arrival (12:30 for lunch) but was soon at maximum capacity. Staff were slightly over attentive, and we had to ask a few times to be given more time to peruse the menu.
After scoffing the (very delicious) complimentary bread and butter, we finally got round to browsing the menu and were immediately drawn to a few dishes. They were:
Acton burrata, agradolce peppers, toast. So apparently they make burrata in Acton, and evidently it’s very good. Paired with agro (sour) dolce (sweet) silky peppers and spread liberally onto toast, this dish doesn’t reinvent anything, but what it does do, is something very well and very deliciously. I would have opted for just a tiny amount of salt on the burrata, but this was otherwise a simple but moreish plate.
Clams, guanciale, vino and peas. This was the standout dish for me. Flawlessly balanced and genius in it’s simplicity, the clams are big, buttery, and salty from the guanciale (similar to pancetta, but fattier and made from pork jowl). The peas are fresh and perfectly cooked, and the dish (in combination with an unexpectedly warm day) takes you to an al fresco trattoria somewhere in Italy. The liquor at the bottom of the bowl can – and must – be enjoyed with your bread, and I could have easily doubled the portion size (we shared all plates). This is a gorgeous celebration of all ingredients involved and a dish I highly recommend.
Guildford House pork chop, greengages, anchovy. A sizzling pork chop that you can smell from the moment it hits the table. I’m a big fan of pork and fruit, and this is these fruits are a particularly well cooked – sticky, jammy and soft. The chop was well cooked, the fat rendered down nicely, and of an excellent quality. Neither of us could taste the anchovy, but the dish was nonetheless a standout.
Grilled sea bass, romesco sauce. Light, fresh, and uncomplicated. The fish was cooked to perfection – moist, flaky, and a great combo with the romesco. My only criticism would be that the portion was a little small.
Our sides were the new potatoes with smoked butter – not revolutionary, but as delicious as you’s expect buttery potatoes to be, and slow cooked courgettes – which I loved. Courgettes are often reduced to a watery mess, but there was no such mess in this case – these were a soft, buttery, flavorful mound that I enjoyed with the pork chop.
The only respectable thing to do was to pair this all with an ice cold bottle of rose, and the Miraval we chose (my first time trying it, and most definitely not my last) was more than up to the job.
My parting thoughts:
It takes guts to open a restaurant in the current climate, and even more so to name it “Joy”. This restaurant lived up to and exceeded my expectations and I am already planning my return (the “Lockdown Lobster” which I eyed enviously as it was carried to the table next to us, looked spectacular). This is a refreshing addition to the London scene, and most importantly the food is creative, tasty, and honest. Like all al fresco venues, Joy comes into it’s own when the weather is good – a sunny day and a special location make this a fantastic choice.
Sabrina Goodlife.