“Brilliant ideas cooked faultlessly”
Many moons ago, a friend suggested we dine at Core by Clare Smyth, back in the days when a reservation could be obtained days, as opposed to weeks ahead. I perused the website of the then 1 Michelin Star Restaurant, and declined, concluding it “didn’t look special”. A while later, 2 more Michelin stars piled on, and so did my feeling of regret, as I constantly refreshed the booking page to find, almost no room at the inn, even weeks in advance. Finally getting a table was a matter of luck (an invite from a friend), and it was as if the meal that unfolded sought sought prove to me just how very special it was, and just how foolish I had been.Clare Smyths pedigree is impressive, but you can’t eat pedigree so I’ll keep it brief: Former restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Gidleigh Park, French Laundry. Former chef of the year, 5 AA Rosettes, 3 Michelin Stars, and currently Chef Patron at Core. On an otherwise unremarkable evening I entered the restaurant to find a cosy long bar (great for pre drinks, should you wish to have them). The journey to our table passed the open kitchen where Clare herself stood at the helm, like the conductor of some magical culinary orchestra. We opted for the Classic Tasting Menu with the wine pairing – this is the best way to first experience this restaurant and includes Clare Smyths signature plates.
My favourites:
The first, almost contemptuously good course was the amuse bouche – the chicken wing with honey, beer and thyme being my favourite, a formidable mouthful of melting fatty scrumptiousness. The foie gras parfait and Madeira amuse bouche was the finest little pastry tartlette, extremely rich (still I’d have had another), with a sweet, jammy, buttery notes. Isle of Harris Scallop cooked over wood. It’s worth mentioning that portions here are generous by the standards of this type of tasting. The largest Scallop I’ve had the pleasure of eating, with sea lettuce, coastal herbs and the roe finely diced. A scallop so buttery you’d be tempted to smear it on a baguette.“Potato and Roe”. A potato with a fantastic reputation – many people have remarked about this plate. My favourite plate of the menu. The potato was given the respect of a of fish, perched in dulse beurre blanc and topped in herring and trout roe. Extremely buttery, I took no shame in using the remainder of my bread crust to mop up the sauce.Rhug Estate venison, “Haggis”. The haggis in particular was a delight. A salty sausagey brick that complimented (and outshined) the venison. I love pastry, and I can’t stand brandy. And yet, the sweet moment I enjoyed the most was the “Apple Three” cocktail. Smoked vanilla and apple wood 10 year Somerset cider brandy.The cooking and presentation ar Core were precise but simultaneously friendly. I’ve had some questionable meals at so called 3 Star restaurants, left to the mercy of their weird ideas. This menu instead consisted of brilliant ideas cooked faultlessly with a surprising but expertly matched wine pairing. It was a rare occasion where the plating matched exactly what you see on the website, and the flavours far surpass your imagination.Is Core worth the wait?Yes! I will be back. This is the first 3 star restaurant I have truly enjoyed, and the best fine dining experience I have had to date in London.Sabrina Goodlife.
